Auckland Market Experience

words by Frederik Swanepoel, recipes by Chef Joel Hobson, photographs by Harriet McDonald

Inspired by spring and all the invigorating produce delivered around October – November in the Auckland region, we decided to challenge one of our talented chefs, Joel Hobson, to select ingredients from the Auckland fresh produce markets over two days and create a three course meal.

Saturday Morning Day One:
We are roused up at the crack of dawn by the excitement of this venture that leads us to our first market: Otara Market. Filled with a vast cultural hotpot that delivers an impressive array of raw, deeply colourful, local and Asian produce. Findings of fresh produce such as puha, fresh turmeric, baby root vegetables, fresh seasons strawberries and many more, leave our chef’s thinking hat reeling with ideas. What is it that he could be creating? Is it a contemporary boil up, or a new season roast?

With our produce basket in hand, filled with: puha, orange, white and purple new season carrots, strawberries and fresh New Zealand oranges, we embark on the rest of our market journey.

Destination Britomart Farmers Market: Farmers and urban trawlers get to reverberate talks of fresh produce and deliver an experience that is highly recommended. Here we get to see not only an exceptional standard of vegetables, but also smoked pork produce, fresh seafood, potted herbs and vegetables perfect for the city fringe apartment balcony. Chef Joel takes some time to look around before picking up some bacon pork bones. He must be thinking of a convectional boil up as one of his courses? What will he be doing for the other two courses?

It would seem at this stage that Chef Joel has a plan of attack as he leads us to the Auckland Fish Market. What an inspirational collection of fresh seafood: snapper, hapuka, John Dory, gurnard, scallops, live eels, live paua, and many more. It is refreshing to know that so much of the New Zealand caught fresh seafood is available to the Kiwi public.

On a mission to find Nemo, Chef Joel drops a hint that he is well inspired by the scallops on sale; he must be planning a scallop entrée.

La Cigale French Market: Parnell is our last stop of the day where we are met with a typical European feel, complete with patisseries, cured meats, vegetables, spreads and dips. Chef Joel finds it hard to contain his excitement, as his menu seems to come together. He picks up pistachios and fresh herbs, but expresses his concern in finding fresh meat at the local markets, as he still needs to find the star act of his menu. After returning to the test kitchen, Chef Joel plays with a couple of ideas before wrapping up day one.

Sunday Morning Day Two:

Day 2 started around 9:30am at Coatesville market where we find Chef Joel frantically looking for fresh pork belly. We get him a coffee and pain au chocolat to calm his nerves. Enjoying the family style market with everything from crocheted scarves to hand made cheese, we quickly realise that this idyllically located and popular market will not deliver the desired Miss Piggy.

So with a bunch of fresh Spring asparagus in hand we revert to Farro Fresh Food Market on Constellation Drive, North Shore, to pick up the star act: Freedom Farms Pork Belly.

At the test kitchen Chef Joel takes a couple of moments to ramble through the pantry to finalise his market menu, and here is what genius he came up with.

Entrée
“Nemo in a Shell” – NZ Scallops with Asparagus and Lemon Beurre Blanc
A quick and refreshing Entrée

Serves 4

Sauce
200g Butter (Diced, Cold)
60 mL Cream
60 mL White Wine
Salt and Pepper to taste
Juice of ½ a Lemon
Method
Simmer cream, wine and lemon juice in a small pot until reduced by half then remove pot from heat and whisk in butter pieces 3 at a time. Set aside for plating. This sauce can be warmed if chilled too much.

Scallops with Asparagus
1 Bunch Asparagus
200g Scallops
4 Sprigs Parsley
30 mL olive oil
Method
Cut ends off asparagus and poach in salted water for 2 minutes
Season scallops with salt, pepper and olive oil. Sear in a hot pan for 40 seconds on each side and remove.
Assemble asparagus and scallops on plate and spoon over sauce. Garnish with parsley and olive oil.

Main Course:
“ Miss Piggy” – Pork Belly and Puha
A contemporary boil up. Prepare the broth and pork belly in advance as this dish takes several hours to prepare.

Serves 4

Ingredients
800g Pork belly
1 Medium Agria Potato – cut into 1cm thick circles
1 Medium Orange Kumara – cut into 1 cm thick circles
1 White Onion – roughly chopped
4 Orange baby carrots
4 White baby carrots
4 Purple baby carrots
1 Bunch Puha
1 kg Bacon Bones – (Smoked Pork Bones)
4 L Water
Salt and Pepper
300g Butter – melted.
Method
Broth & Pork Belly
Place bacon bones, onion and pepper corns into large pot with water simmer for 1 hour.
Place pork belly in broth and simmer on low heat for a further hour. Remove pork belly and set aside. Retain broth liquid for poaching whilst straining broth to remove the bones.
Potato and Kumara
Place potato circles, kumara circles and melted butter in small ovenproof pot. Confit in oven pre heated to 130 ‘C oven for 45 minutes or until soft. Remove vegetables from the fat and set aside to fry before serving.
Baby Carrots
Bring broth back to a simmer to poach remaining vegetables
Poach the cleaned carrots for 2 minutes.
Poach puha in broth for 10 minutes.
Plating
Cut pork belly into 4 pieces, season the skin side with Salt & Pepper then place skin side down in hot pan until crisp (+-10 minutes), Also pan fry the Potatoes and Kumara on both sides until golden.
Assemble all ingredients in 4 separate bowls to serve and pour broth over.
Garnish with oregano and olive oil.
Time to open the curtains for the main attraction.

Dessert
Blini with Strawberry Cream and Compote.

Serves 4

Blini
50g Butter – melted
1 Cup Milk
1 Cup Self Raising Flour
1 Tsp. Vanilla Essence
2 Tbsp Sugar
1 Egg
Method
Wisk egg, sugar and vanilla essence together.
Melt butter and pour into milk. Fold in flour and mix to form light dough.
Cook small spoonfuls on a medium heat non-stick pan until golden on each side

Strawberry cream
4 Strawberries, crushed with 1 tbsp. sugar
400 ml whipped cream
Method
Fold together, add more sugar if needed

Strawberry compote
4 Strawberry quartered
1 Orange for Juice and ½ for zest
1 Tbsp. Sugar
Method
Crush strawberries with all ingredients and mix.

Place blinis on plate and 2 spoons of strawberry cream on top. Spoon over compote and garnish with crushed pistachios and shaved chocolate.

Enjoy!

Bumbu Bali

by Frederik Swanepoel

Visiting Bali in Mid-September ensures not only a hot, sunny and sweaty arrival, but also the perfect season for the most delectable produce. It was during a recent visit to Seminyak & Nusa Dua, Bali, that I had an unforgettable opportunity to experience what it is to be a Balinese housewife; from the food markets to the actual cuisine in Bali.

The mother figure known as ‘Mamma Bali’ is the matriarch of the household. She plays a colossal role in the influence and development of authentic Balinese food that we know today. The Mothers will cook simple meals to feed the family on a daily basis whereas ‘Papa Bali’ will cook the more intensive meals for special occasions.

You might think that Balinese food is Chinese & European influenced due to the mainstream availability in tourist spots, and one would have to walk a hard mile to find an inspired Balinese meal, but don’t fear there is an entire world of Balinese flavors and tantalizing spices that await your palate. Although influential, true Balinese cuisine is hard to find. As local Balinese would tell; “Balinese specialties are time- and ingredient-intensive”, and as such they are mostly served at special occasions and are not often found in restaurants. Bumbu Bali, Nusa Dua serves up real authentic Balisese food.

Produce found in Bali is excpetionally fresh; vegetables are always cooked well, and served limp or soft so as to be served as a complement to rice, the staple of each meal. Meat, fish, vegetables and sauces are used more as a condiment or side dish.

There is a great emphasis placed on the colour symbolism in relation to the Gods. The three natural colors of rice are believed to be given by the Gods to symbolise three of the four cardinal directions and Gods. Black symbolises the God of the North, White represents the God of the East, Red Is symbolic of the Southern God. Yellow is the only colour that lacks in natural rice; although it is believed that turmeric was given by the Gods to colour rice yellow and therefore represent the God of the West.

I took a cooking class at Bumbu Bali while in Nusa Dua. It began with an early 6am start with an introduction to Balinese food by Chef Heinz von Holzen alongside several unsettled Chickens and a barrage of flies at the Jimbaran markets. We were served a Strong Balinese coffee, Just before von Holzen decided to show us how to hypnotise a chicken. This left me convinced that we were expected to kill our own lunch. Luckily the well-hypnotised chicken, dubbed Charlie, was returned to the coop unharmed.

After the introduction, we were led through the Jimbaran market, filled with bizzarre looking vegetables, meowing cats and overcrowded scooters; fresh meat, baskets of shellfish, exotic flowers and aromatic spices. Mamma Bali buys fresh every day due to no refrigeration.

Next we hit a nearby fish market. Sadly the fish population in Bali has severely collapsed into an alarmingly low yield. Most of the Fish and seafood in this market is shipped over frozen from Java, rather than caught in the Bali waters. Sardines and mackerel are still to be found in abundance, where the other species are of the bare minimum.

After being served breakfast, we begin to make our way through 20 recipes. All the delegates are expected to get their hands dirty, while being continuously barraged with questions to create interaction between us and instructors Chef von Holzen and Chef Pak Bupak.

Afterwards we all gather for lunch where we get to taste the dishes we prepared in true Rijsttafel style: an array of small potions served together. Well fed with a Balinese master chef certificate in hand I depart the village of Bumbu Bali enriched with inspiration and new found respect for this magical cuisine.

You can book the class here. I recommend booking well in advance as the class is hugely popular.

The following recipes are taken from Bumbu Bali, with some Indonesian ingredients substituted for locally found ingredients.

 

 

 

Nasi Kuning (Yellow Rice)

Yellow, one of the four sacred colors makes this festive rice dish strikingly different from the normal, everyday steamed rice. The rice is cooked in lightly seasoned coconut milk and chicken stock for extra flavor, while the touch of oil in the coconut milk gives it a glistening appearance and keeps each grain separate.

INGREDIENTS

1½ Cups Long Grain Rice, washed and drained
2½ Cups Coconut Milk
¾ Cup Chicken Stock
1 Salam Leaf, (Bay leaf of Curry tree leaf could be used as a substitute.)
1 Cinnamon Stick
1 Stalk Lemon Grass, Bruised
1 Teaspoon Turmeric powder
2 Cm Ginger root, peeled and cut in 4 lengthwise slices
1 Tablespoon Salt

PREPARATIONS :
Combine all ingredients in a heavy stockpot and simmer covered (approximately 20 minutes).

Helpful hints: Turn the heat down as soon as the liquid dissipates to prevent the coconut milk from burning on the bottom of the pot. Remove lemon Grass, Leaves and Ginger from rice before serving.
Delicious served with pork in Sweet Soy sauce

Be Celeng Base Manis (Pork in Sweet Soy Sauce)

This delicious sweet pork dish with a hint of ginger and plenty of chilies to spice it up often appear on festive occasions, when a whole pig is slaughtered and there’s plenty of meat available.

INGREDIENTS:

2 Tablespoon Coconut oil
5 Shallots, peeled and sliced
5 Cloves Garlic, peeled and sliced
600g Boneless Pork Leg or Shoulder cut in 2 cm (3/4 in) cubes.
8 cm Ginger, peeled and sliced
4 Tablespoons Sweet soy sauce (Kecap Manis)
2 Tablespoons Soy sauce
1 Teaspoon Black peppercorns Crushed
2 Cups Chicken Stock
6-10 Bird’s eye Chilies, left whole –it is essential to keep these little firecrackers whole as it will infuse flavor to the dish as apposed to heat.

PREPARATION:
1. Heat oil in a heavy saucepan. Add Shallots and Garlic and sauté for 2 minutes over medium heat or until lightly colored.

2. Add pork and ginger continue to sauté for 2 more minutes over high heat. Add Sweet and Normal soy sauce and crushed Black pepper; continue to sauté for 1 minute.
3. Pour in Chicken stock and simmer over medium heat for approximately 1 hour. When cooked, there should be very little sauce left and the meat should be shiny and dark brown. Add a little chicken stock if the meat becomes too dry during cooking.

The Caker

by Sophie Curlett, photography by Frances Carter

Last Thursday marked the release of a short film promoting ‘The Caker’, Jordan Rondel’s flourishing baking business. Now operating out of the commercial kitchen at Eightthirty Café and fulfilling orders for a wide variety of private celebrations and commercial events, the popularity of Jordan’s sweet morsels stands testament to the fact that a good party is nothing without cake.

The Caker’s creations have been particularly popular with the fashion crowd; her cakes and miniature creations have become commonplace at some of Auckland’s most stylish events. Considering the attendees are usually better known for huddling around the drinks table than consuming sugary treats, this might be considered an unexpected partnership. Yet her creations go down well – extremely well – at these events, perhaps because the cakes look as good as they taste. Jordan admits to having a mind to aesthetics when creating recipes – her recent custom-made cakes for Lonely Hearts were inspired by a floral fabric from the upcoming Spring collection, both visually and in terms of the flavours incorporated. However she emphasises that it is always more important to her that a cake tastes good than that it looks pretty – unlike those ubiquitous, overly decorated but ultimately bland cupcakes which we all know so well. Like all good ‘home baking’, there is a calculated imperfection to all of her creations; icing oozes from the tops of cupcakes and sponge layers are stacked ever-so-slightly haphazardly between licks of jam.

As with so many of the best creative products, the new short film is a collaboration between several inspired minds close to Jordan. Produced by Laura Barton and displaying an extravagance and attention to detail typical of director Calypso Paoli’s photographic work, the piece is as much a work of art in itself as an advertisement. With clothing supplied by Stolen Girlfriends’ Club, jewellery from Zoe and Morgan and cupcake-painted nails by Kylie McKenzie of Black Moon Nails, the styling of the film threatens, but never quite succeeds, to upstage The Caker’s tableau of cakes and sweets, fit for any Queen of Versailles.

Here is the film:

Doing the Fandango with Goan Cuisine

by Frederik Swanepoel and Andrew Giles, recipes by Chef Andrew Rodrigues

Introduction to Goan Cuisine – by Frederik Swanepoel

Good Indian food is reminiscent of rich spices and aromas that bring to us the legends of spice mistresses’ with their demonstrable ability to turn each spice into magic. Renowned for its beaches, places of worship and world heritage architecture, Goa has become home for many Portuguese merchants since early 16th century.

The Portuguese introduced potatoes and tomatoes from Brazil, and although the Hindus did not accept tomatoes and potatoes until the late 20th century, they later became the most essential part of this Hindu and Mediterranean mash up. The Hindu cooking and Portuguese had one spice in common and that was the all-noble and seductive chillies, which has since played an enormous part in what is today known as Goan cuisine.

Rice with Fish Curry is the staple diet in Goa, although this Mediterranean influenced style of cuisine is famous for its rich variety of fish dishes cooked with elaborate recipes inspired by the strong surge of Portuguese culture.

Even though the majority of his professional career is served to the likes of Italian cooking, Chef Andrew Rodrigues takes us back to his childhood days of doing the Fandango with Indian spices and modern Mediterranean cuisine in Goa.

Introduction to Beer Matching – by Andrew Giles

After a small amount of research it was discovered that the Goan region of India has a very strong Portuguese influence to the food. Armed with this new tit bit of information I approached the evening from a different angle.
An ice-cold beer has long been enjoyed with a good plate of Portuguese cuisine so why not do the same with a Goan Curry? Great Idea! But the world of Beer is just as vast as the world of wine, now, where to start…

Another bright idea! I paid a visit to the Lion office where Hayden Harvey very generously spent some time with me going over some of the more basic points around pairing beer and food together. We settled on two different beers as we had quite a complex menu for the evening, and, as with wine, needed to match taste tones with taste tones.

First up we sampled Mac’s ‘Hop Rocker.’ This beer is classed as pilsner, which means it is lighter in color and has more spice and citrus on the palate, a great point to consider if you enjoy adding chili and lime to dishes. The Mac’s Hop Rocker stood up very well to a great spicy gazpacho styled entrée.

After that and further down the menu, another amber visitor found itself joining the dinner party. The second beer, which Hayden had suggested for us to try, was the ‘Gold Malt Lager’ also, from Mac’s. This was suggested due to the fact that a Lager would be a fuller and sweeter beer, to cut through some of stronger flavours in the food, allowing both the meal and the lager to show off their craftsmanship. Also as a Goan menu might progress, it would match the mood well.

Thank you Mac’s and thank you Goa!

First Chef Rodrigues takes us on a journey filled with nostalgia of traditions, fish racheado, made with a red curry paste or masala, used to marinade a local fish delicacy, the pomfret.

Goan Pomfret Racheado

Serves four to six
Snapper could be used as a substitute.

Ingredients
2 medium pomfret fish, cleaned and gutted
25 whole, dried chillies
1tbs cumin seeds
100g whole peppercorns
3 whole medium cinnamon sticks
15 cloves
2-3 medium bay leaves
6 whole cardamom pods
250mL malt vinegar
50g ginger peeled and roughly chopped
30g garlic cleaned and roughly chopped
10 curry leaves
5-10g sugar
1/2 tbs turmeric powder
100mL oil

Heat oven to 160°C.
Lay the fish on a chopping board and cut a slit from head to tail along the back spine, keep scraping against the bone on your way down to create a pocket. Rub the fish with salt and 50mL of the malt vinegar and set aside.
Grind all the spices together in a spice grinder till a fine powder (pepper corn, cloves, cardamom, cinnamon, bay leaves, cumin seeds, Red chili whole).
Then add the ginger, garlic, curry leaves, turmeric, sugar and the rest of the malt vinegar and grind into a smooth paste. This is your racheado masala.
Fill the fillet pockets of the pomfret with the racheado masala, and marinate for 15 minutes.
Heat oil in a pan and fry the fish for 2 minutes on each side.
Bake in oven for 15 minutes, until skin is crispy.
Serve hot, garnish with chopped coriander, and serve with Kismur salad (recipe below).

Kismur (dried shrimp salad)

Ingredients
100g dried shrimp
200g onion, finely chopped
100g tomatoes, deseeded and chopped
2-3 green chillies
1/2 bunch of coriander, finely chopped
30mL coconut oil
30mL malt vinegar
1pinch white sugar

Soak the dried shrimp in warm water for 90 minutes, drain and set aside.
Heat coconut oil in a pan and fry the shrimp until lightly golden.
Add onions, tomatoes, chillies and coriander.
Toss until the onions are translucent, but crispy. (approx. 2 minutes)
Add vinegar, sugar, and salt to taste.
Served garnished with coriander.

Match these two dishes with the Mac’s Hop Rocker.

Onto the Main course Chef Rodrigues pulls out all the stops to showcase his heritage, and delivers an opulent broth of rich coconut, Magical spice blend and Tiger prawns.

Goan Prawn Curry

Serves four to six

Ingredients
15-20 tiger prawns, deveined
4tbs coriander seeds
1tbs cumin seeds
15 whole dried red chillies
250g grated coconut
1tbs turmeric powder
2 garlic cloves
250mL water
250mL prawn or fish stock
75g onion finely chopped
1 chopped tomato
2 green chillies deseeded and slit
200mL coconut milk
20g tamarind paste

Marinate the prawns in 1/4tbs turmeric and salt to taste, set aside.
Grind all spices together into a fine powder (coriander seeds, cumin seeds, red chillies).
Then add the coconut, turmeric and garlic and blend into a smooth paste (approx. 12-15 minutes).
Heat a pot with water and stock, add the paste and bring to the boil, then let simmer for 10 minutes.
Add the onions and simmer for a further 4 minutes.
Add the prawns, simmer until they are cooked.
Add the tomatoes, green chillies and tamarind paste.
Simmer for 3 minutes then serve hot on jasmine rice.

Serve this dish with Mac’s Gold Malt Lager.

Throw away your cutlery and indulge with your hands as traditionally done!

Thai Breakfast & Lunch

by Chef Jamie Johnston

Having spent Christmas on the island Koh Samui in Thailand with a few locals, Chef Jamie Johnston has picked up a few recipes to share.

Firstly, breakfast:

Ginger & Palm Sugar Tisane
Serves 4

1″ of ginger chopped roughly
1 star anise
1 cinnamon stick snapped
4 tablespoons of palm sugar
thumb size piece of pandan

Let all ingredients steep in hot (not boiling) water for 5 minutes, then serve.

Thai Fruit Salad with Chili Salt
Serves 4

1 golden pineapple diced nice and chunky
1/2 watermelon skinned diced nice and chunky
1 red chilli deseeded
1 tablespoon of castor sugar
1 teaspoon of fine salt
8 mint leaves shredded

Place pineapple on a plate, top with watermelon and shredded mint.
In a pestle and mortar smash the chilli with sugar and salt untill you get a red crunchy paste, sprinkle over salad.


Lunch:

Beef Fillet & Mango Salad with Coconut Milk & Green Chili Dressing

400g beef fillet

Marinade: (marinate beef a day ahead)
lemongrass, one stalk smashed and roughly chopped
1″ chopped ginger
1 Green chilli with seeds rough chopped
1 shallot roughly chopped
2 cloves of garlic smashed
1 bunch coriander stalks smashed
1 lime zest and juice

Mango Salad:
1 green mango fine shredded
1 bunch of coriander leaves removed from stalks used in marinade, shredded
200g Mung beans
1 good handful of snow peas finely shredded
1 large carrot peeled and finely shredded
1 lime juice
1/2 teaspoon of fish sauce

Coconut & Green Chili Dressing:
400mL coconut milk
1 green chilli finely diced and deseeded
1 tablespoon of fish sauce
1 tsp crushed coriander seeds
1 tablespoon Palm sugar crushed
2 clove of garlic pureed

Heat a pan until smoking.
Seal beef for a minute on all sides and set aside.
While beef is resting add all vegetables and mango in a bowl.
Squeeze over lime and fish sauce, toss together.
Whisk together all dressing ingredients, bring to room temperature to get full flavour.

Serve beef sliced on top of mango salad, with the dressing on the side.

Tapas

by Chef Jamie Johnston, photography by Benjamin Walls

Chorizo, Parsley and Garlic Flower Tortilla

12 eggs
300g diced chorizo
1 large spanish onion sliced
1 handful of ripped parsley
1 tsp of toasted coriander seeds crushed
2 tsp of garlic flowers

Pre heat oven to 160°C.
Line a baking dish with baking paper and scatter all ingredients except eggs.
Whisk eggs and pour over bake for 20 to 25 minutes until firm.
Season with flakey sea salt, freshly cracked black pepper and garlic flowers.


Patatas Bravas with Aioli

1kg new potatoes slit with and cross on top
handful rock salt
olive oil
handful of thyme, bay leaves and oregano

Pre heat oven to 160°C.
Lay potatoes cut side up on an oven tray, sprinkle with rock salt.
Lay over herbs over potatoes and drizzle over oil.
Bake until tender and golden brown.
Once cooked pinch on either side to make it pop up like a little jakcet potato.

Tomato chilli sauce

2 red chillies whole
2 dried chipotles soaked in hot water then squeezed of excess water
4 cloves of garlic smashed
800g ripe tomatoes

In a dry pan on a medium heat, roast all ingrediants til blackened and soft.
Blitz in a food proccessor.
Return to a pot and reduce until thick.
Season with salt and pepper.

Aioli

6 egg yolks
sea salt
1 tblsp dijon mustard
6 cloves of roasted garlic
tsp of sherry vinegar
juice of one lemon
800ml olive oil

Whisk egg yolks with garlic, salt, lemon juice and mustard.
Slowly whisk in olive oil until it becomes a silky texture.

Assemble potato, tomato sauce then aioli and garnish with coriander.


Pork and Smoked Pimenton Lolly with Sherry Syrup

400g Pork mince
2 minced garlic cloves
2 tsp dried oregano
1 tsp chilli powder
2 tsp cumin powder
salt and white pepper
1 egg to bind

Preheat oven to 180°C.
Mix all ingredients together.
Roll into little meat balls.
Insert lolly stick and bake for 15 mins until golden.

Sherry Syrup

1/2 cup of castor sugar
1/2 cup of sherry

Bring to a boil and reduce til sticky.
Serve with pork and pimenton lollies.